Siena
Siena is the perfect antidote to Florence. Self-contained and still part-rural behind its medieval walls, its great attraction is its cityscape, a majestic Gothic whole that could be enjoyed without venturing into a single museum. As a provincial capital, Siena has good transport links with some of the finest sights of Tuscany. The most popular trip is to the multi-towered village of San Gimignano, to the northwest; it's worthwhile, though packed out in midsummer. Far fewer people take the trouble to sample the medieval and ancient Etruscan town of Volterra, a rewarding stop en route to Pisa. THE CITY in the center of Siena is its great square, the Campo, built at the convergence of the city's principal roads, the Banchi di Sopra, Banchi di Sotto and via di Città. Each of these roads leads out across a ridge, straddled by one of the city's three medieval terzi, or quarters: the Terzo di Città to the southwest, the Terzo di San Martino to the southeast, and the Terzo di Camollia to the north. This central core - entirely medieval in plan and appearance - has, since the 1960s, been effectively pedestrianized. Finding your way around is therefore simple and enjoyable; everywhere of interest is within easy walking distance. Siena feels distinctly provincial after Florence.
The main action of an evening is the passeggiata from Piazza Matteotti along Banchi di Sopra to the Campo - and there' s not much in the way of nightlife to follow. For most visitors, though, the Campo, the City's universal gathering place, provides diversion enough, while the presence of the university ensures a bit of life in the bars, as well as a cluster of cheaper trattorie alongside the pricier tourist restaurants. Posters for city events are to be seen around Piazza Matteotti or on the stepped alley leading out of Piazza del Mercato to Via di Salicotto. The Monte dei Paschi Bank and Accademia Chigiana put on some impressive classical concerts throughout the year.